Chamonix - picture

Olle enjoying the beautiful mountain scenery

Chamonix

I have been dreaming to go alpine climbing in Chamonix for years. Last week I finally got my chance when I arrived in the small valley. I was also joined by some amazing people, which made this trip even better.

Beautiful scenery 

We had very warm weather with a lot of sunshine and no wind; something most people enjoy. I however am different, and prefer colder weather with some wind... At least the weather did not interfere with our plans.

Olle belaying Annika

During the week, our guide, Martin, introduced us to all kinds of techniques required to stay safe on the mountains. He took us to incredible places! Most of the time we were alone alpine climbing. We barely met other climbers. I know for sure I will come back!

Bouldering with the team

 As we returned down to the valley after three consecutive days on the mountain, we got the chance to meet up with climbers from the Swedish Team (and Danish).

//Oscar

Stanage

My summer holiday finally started last Thursday.  Unfortunately, I cannot relax completely from school, as the list of books to read and essays to be written over the summer is still very long.  However, I will definitely not complain because I will still have more time to climb!

Last week I already got to spend three days in Peak District.  During the first two days, the English weather showed us what it is capable; it almost rained nonstop.  But no matter what type of weather is showing it self, it is always possible to find dry rock!

Sorting out the gear after onsighting Tippler Direct E3 6a

Our last day in Peak District was much better and I particularly liked the cold temperatures and the strong winds.  I got the chance to climb some classical trad routes on the famous Stanage Edge.  This was a true mental game! Being 15 meters up on the wall knowing that your last small cam is 6 meters below you, even when the climbing is easy, can be quite daunting. 

Cleaning another brilliant route

Overall, it was great mental preparation for my alpine trip to Chamonix this Saturday.  I haven't been this excited for a trip in a long time; I cannot wait to be introduced to a new dimension of climbing.

Swedish Youth Championship

This weekend I competed in the Swedish Junior Championships in lead climbing. On Saturday I arrived at the arena feeling excited to meet my friends again and to do my best in the competition.

The qualification went well; I topped both routes, and I shared first place with Hannes Puman (who achieve an amazing 2nd place at the Youth World Championship last year). In the final I kept my nerves well together; I climbed well and efficiently up to a couple of moves below the top. Then a miscalculation caused me to fall off. Hannes won gold and I got the silver medal; a result I am extremely pleased with!

A big thanks to all those who made this competition possible!

Sunday involved a short and sunny visit to örnberget, my old home-crag in stockholm, with my friend Olle (who got the bronze), before it was time to head back home to london.

Santa Linya, Spain

During the first three days it was just my dad and me but later our friends from Sweden joined us. It was a really fun trip with a lot of laughter, climbing and good weather for most of the time.


Getting excited by all cool routes

I returned home pleased, as it felt like my climbing had started to improve again. I did two 8a and two 7c+ and my body was able to handle multiple days of climbing. The rest of the group also climbed very well: Scott sending La Fabelita 8c, Olle doing his first 7c+ abroad and Peter showing extreme determination on his project that he most likely would have climbed if illness had not stopped him. Another highlight was to see Magnus Mitboe getting really close on his 9b project.


Hopefully it won’t be too long until I can return to the amazing rock walls that Spain has to offer!!

Time back in London

Climbing in Canada del Capricho

Since my return from Spain I haven’t been able to train too much, I have been feeling tired and fighting with a slight cold. The main reason is probably that I haven’t got enough sleep from trying to keep up with both school and training. Another few days of taking it easy and I should be ready again :)

Looking forward to all climbing this spring!

Great news and a fun trip

Four weeks ago the doctors told me that I am once again able to train hard since my heart should have had enough time to recover. I left the hospital very happy as the doctors’ words had been a huge relief: after 8 months I was finally able to train as hard as I wished.

Now I have just landed in London again after a short trip to Tenerife, Spain. The expectations before the trip were low and I was not sure what I wanted to climb.

The first three days were slow and I felt tired from much work in school the previous week. However, the last two days were filled with more success and my climbing felt much better.

After a rest day we went up to Canada del Capricho, at 2170 meters above sea level, close to the island’s volcano. I was eager to test the moves on Subway 8a and quickly got my slings up. After 15 minutes rest I tied in again, easily got through the hard start and before I knew it I was mantling over the top to clip the anchor. 8a on my second try!!

The next day followed in similar success and I was able to a 7c+ on my third attempt. The route involved big moves between painful small pockets up a massive boulder. However, the route ate enough skin to make any further climbing almost unbearable.  

The trip was a great way to start the season and it will be a good base for future training plans.