Thanks for 2012

I would like to thank every one for the support you have showed me during this year by following my blog. It has been a year I will never forget, both for the bad and good reasons, and sharing it with others has definitely made it easier and more enjoyable.

I can't wait to see what  2013 has to offer but I am sure it will be another exciting, fascinating and challenging year!

Happy New Year!

Christmas Bouldering

After no climbing for two weeks because of a really bad cold it was time again. The plan had been to visit the Peak District for a two days trip but after two weeks of consecutive raining most parts of England are flooded. So instead it had to be some bouldering in London!

Overhang Eliminate 7B

A small boulder in the middle of a park, probably one of the least exciting places I have climbed on but at least it has the feeling of climbing on rock. Even though it had been raining the entire night and most of the boulder was wet/damp I could still enjoy a Christmas Day of outdoor bouldering repeating some of the more exciting lines.

You also have the pleasure of seeing the Olympic Venues from the park!

Kalymnos

Ne pas toucher a ma bite

Webpage updated

Make sure to check out my website that has recently been updated. There are a tons of new pictures :)

www.oscarkrumlinde.com

Third in Swedish Championship Bouldering

Last weekend, I took part in the Swedish Championship in bouldering in Gothenburg. It was my first competition after my heart problem and I was really excited to compete again but at the same time a bit nervous.

In the qualification I come fourth, which mean I made it through to the final. The climbing felt pretty good and I knew what I had to improve for the final. I was really tired after the climbing and even I fell asleep during the day while we were watching a movie…

On the final day I was super excited to climb and felt very motivated to try my best. The final consisted of 3 boulders, and in the end it was super close between the top-4 climbers. It was barely anything that separated us but in the end Jonathan won, as he was able to grab the last hold on a boulder that the rest of us only touched. I ended up third (with the same score in the final as the silver medallist), which was a result I was really pleased with and probably one of the most satisfying medals ever. I had no idea what level I was at after everything I have had to go through this year and didn’t feel very strong beforehand but I was able to pull everything out when I needed it. It was close that a tear started falling down my cheek... 

It was exactly what I needed to motivate myself to continue training again!! 

Rodellar

We had a good week in Rodellar, even though the weather and the conditions could have been better! A lot of routes were wet from the heavy rain before and during the time we were there but we were at least able to find enough climbs for a week ;)

Good morning Rodellar!!

The aim of the trip was to climb a lot of different routes to see how the body would respond to it. It was really fun to just climb around on amazing rock.

During the week we also meet some great Canadian and British people who we climb with and spent every evening chatting with!

Walking out in the rain to attempt climbing :)

I would have loved to stay another week but when the last day came and the nose was stuffed and the throat was sore it felt ok to leave.

Next weekend I’m going to my first competition after my heart problem, I have no idea what level I’m at and have no certain aims but it will be really fun to compete again.

Trip to Rodellar

Tomorrow I'm going on an one-week climbing trip to Rodellar, Spain. I have been there once before with a group of friends. I'm really excited to go!! My friend Shawn and my dad is also coming along :)

Rodellar 2010

Burbage

Burbage summer 2012

Another image

High Rocks, England

Picture

Peak District

High Rocks with girlfriend +film

On Saturday I went climbing with my girlfriend at High Rocks.

Already showing great strength on the indoor wall it was time for her to meet the challenges of real rock and without much struggle she quickly adjusted her climbing to the small and rounded rock features. An impressive first day outdoor climbing.

I had also quite a successful day doing Kinda Lingers SS 7C and Chez's Dyno 7B. Both two being really fun climbs, the first one required some thinking while the second one was all about jumping far!

The weather stayed on our side as the promised rain never showed up :) 

High Rocks

Last weekend I went to the closest outdoor climbing from London, High Rocks, to do some bouldering. It might only be about 60kilometres there but driving through the city of London takes time (2.5 hours there and 3 hours back)!!

Resurrection 7C

It was the first time I climbed on sandstone, which was really cool. Many climbs are VERY high (12m+) and as bolting is not allowed people climb with top ropes or of course solo... The park is privately own and it costs £10 to climb there.

Cool wall climbing

I had a really fun day doing a few 7a/+'s and my second 7C! The climb that stood out most was a 7 metres slightly overhanging 6B+ with the crux in the end. Let just say I was scared and that the crash pads looks very small from that height :-) 

Peak District + movie

In the end of last week I went on another short trip to the Peak District and as always the area offers amazing climbing. However, the weather can be less amazing and this time it was very humid and rained quite often. The goal on the trip was to try as many classics and three star boulders as possible. The grades were secondary and my favourite climb was probably a 5+ on a tall arête.  

Nevertheless, the highlight of the trip was definitely when I was trying the hardest boulder of the trip, Brass Monkey 7C, and Enzo Oddo showed up and asked me for the beta! Very special to show one of the best climbers in the world how to climb something and then see him do what you just told him :-)  

Here is a movie of both of us climbing the problem: 

                    

The Olympic Games

 I had the opportunity to get into the Olympic Park and also watch Sweden win the semifinal in handball.

Me wearing a shirt with the Swedish Climbing Federation's logo on, when talking to people no one could understand why climbing is not an Olympic sport... And a lot of them were interested to know more about sport climbing :) :)

Stanage

This weekend I went on a trip to the famous climbing place Stanage in Peak District. After an early start and a long drive we arrived to the cliff and it's boulder field.

The plan was to do bouldering but maybe do some trad too. The bouldering was really good and climbing on grit stone was amazing, even though my fingertips got completely destroyed after just a few climbs on the rough rock.

Me on top of Not to be Taken Away
really happy I did not fall and had to land
on the stone 6.5 meters below

Not to be Taken Away

Deliverance 

I got the chance to climb some real classics such as Zippy's Traverse 7B, Green Traverse 7A, The Glass Hour 7A, Deliverance 7B+, Not to be Taken Away 6C and also an incredible trad route!
I can't wait to get back here to try all other amazing boulder and trad routes :)

London 2012

Now it's less than an hour to the opening ceremony of the Olympics!

Mont Blanc

 I have dreamt of climbing Mont Blanc for years and last summer some friends and I decided that we would give it an attempt. I thought of it every day for almost an entire year so of course it was terribly disappointing when the doctors said that I couldn’t go, as my heart wouldn’t be well enough yet.

The hair you get after a day wearing a helmet- Chamonix 2010

 The rest of the team still went to Chamonix as planned and early on Thursday morning they were on their way towards the summit. The same morning we woke up to the bad news that an avalanche had killed 9 climbers on their way to the summit. After about an hour of worry we got to know our friends were safe and had decided to call off their attempt because of the avalanche and bad weather. 

Now all our thoughts also go the ones that lost friends or family members in the mountains. 

The last weeks!

Sorry for the blog not being updated lately but here is a short summary of the last weeks!

After 8 weeks of complete rest I was able to start with some physical activity again; some yoga and easy climbing. I felt weak, got tired very easily and had to listen carefully to my body. However, after some weeks I was able try a bit harder, as long as I made sure that my heart didn’t have to work too hard. I had to go to Stockholm for a short visit and even though climbing was not the reason for the trip I still had some time to climb with some friends, which was really fun.

My last visit to the hospital was this Monday as I had to be checked for another possible problem with my heart and I’m going back quite soon again for another check up.

Right now I’m Sweden with my girlfriend :)