Wednesday, August 24, 2011

The complex game of competitions and a never ending story about illness

Two weekends ago it was an EYS competition in the Austrian town of Imst. We were a quite big team from Sweden, 7 competitors and 2 team leaders.

Overall it was a lot of climbers as many nations had already arrived to Austria for the Youth World Championshis, which are being held two weeks after the EYS. In my category it was 63 climbers. The competition was held on a new outdoor wall, which can easily be described as stunning.

My first route had a quite bouldering start on smaller holds. It felt great and I passed the first hard part easily. I was supposed to clip and I moved my centre of gravity to get a better position, but when I was to pull the rope up my left foot just flew of the wall and so did I. Disappointing as I had still power to go!

On the second route, a more pumpy route, the climbing felt good and I was able to get a few holds even after I got the real pumped. When I got down I thought I had done pretty ok.

When I saw the result later I got a bit chocked, I had done better on the first route than on the second one (compared to the other competitors). So on the route I thought I done worse on as my foot had popped off I had done better on. Weird!

Matilda S ended up on third place, very good! Overall the Swedish team had a very good competition.

Never ending story about illness…

The day after the competition I noticed a big nasty rash on my body while I was doing some exercises for my bad back. I had to go to the Emergency room where I spent the day, while waiting the rash spread to the whole body. My hands went so big that writing this would have been impossible.

I have been at the hospital a few times during the week and they think it’s some kind of allergic reaction but to what they don’t know.

The drugs I got have helped so now I look quite normal again.

Sadly I couldn´t go to Imst for the Youth World Championship this week because of recommedation from my GP and my physical situation…

Sunday, August 7, 2011

A great time!, led to a bad thing

I’m back in London after a few weeks in Sweden. I have been climbing every time I have been close to a wall, and I must say it has felt great. I feel stronger and the climbing feels smoother.

I also spent some days in Alingsås to visit Carlos and climb at Korpaberget. I tried to do Kjesarens nya Kläder, which is a short 7c+/8a. The weather was great for being on the beach but not for climbing hard routes…

Already on my first try I noticed that I got stronger, from not being able to basically do any moves last year I could do them all. Unfortunately I was never able to send it but I got really close, many times. Now I have a good excuse to go back.

After that it was a training camp in Gothenburg, with the Swedish team and its training group. We all had a great week, climbing on both real rock and at the climbing gyms. It was also a great chance to try a lot of onsight climbing before the competitions in Imst. Did a lot of nice routes, nothing really hard but many of them were 3 star routes, with the hardest being 7c at Granitgrottan.

Me finding a no-hands on a route at the amazing cliff, Träleberget

Sadly in the end of the week I hurt my shoulder while doing a weird movement. I pulled but my right shoulder was locked in its position and gave out extreme pain. No climbing since that, hopefully I can go to Imst this Friday.

The chiropractor told me that my shoulder and spine were looked in a bad position and blocked the muscles. I was really weak in right arm compered to my left arm, which is fine. Going back on Tuesday, hope its better then.