Sardinia

I wrote this a week ago but forgot to post it…

The trip to Sardinia was great, even if it was off-season and all the restaurants were closed…

The climbing the first few days weren’t too impressive and almost every route was on slab or vertical wall with tiny holds. I didn’t like it too much but it was good finger training!

So the second half of the week we moved to another city, to climb at another area. Here the climbing was much better, step climbing mostly on pockets. The climbing started to go well too, was really getting into climbing after not being able to train that much lately because of school. I was able to do a really nice 8a and try many routes onsight just one after another. Some I did and many I was really close to do, but it was just so fun to try another route even if I was really tired!

The surrounding area was always very beautiful and quit, which was a great bonus. We also had great weather, the whole week, with only a bit of rain during the nights. The big down side was the driving though, the roads very terrible going up the mountains, an 110km drive took more than 3hours!

/Oscar

Wonderland 8a

Here is a film from the trip to Sardinia. More pictures and text is coming soon.

Finally vacation!

It’s finally holiday from school now, and I’m on Sardinia for a week’s vacation and some climbing with my family. I’m excited to just visit some new areas and see what they have to offer.

An extremely close onsight attempt on an amazing 7c

It has been very much going on in school lately, so my climbing training has been suffering from that. Not been able to train that much at all, but hopefully the shape will not be too bad.

Here is few pictures though from what I have been up to when I haven't been doing school work

The complex game of competitions and a never ending story about illness

Two weekends ago it was an EYS competition in the Austrian town of Imst. We were a quite big team from Sweden, 7 competitors and 2 team leaders.

Overall it was a lot of climbers as many nations had already arrived to Austria for the Youth World Championshis, which are being held two weeks after the EYS. In my category it was 63 climbers. The competition was held on a new outdoor wall, which can easily be described as stunning.

My first route had a quite bouldering start on smaller holds. It felt great and I passed the first hard part easily. I was supposed to clip and I moved my centre of gravity to get a better position, but when I was to pull the rope up my left foot just flew of the wall and so did I. Disappointing as I had still power to go!

On the second route, a more pumpy route, the climbing felt good and I was able to get a few holds even after I got the real pumped. When I got down I thought I had done pretty ok.

When I saw the result later I got a bit chocked, I had done better on the first route than on the second one (compared to the other competitors). So on the route I thought I done worse on as my foot had popped off I had done better on. Weird!

Matilda S ended up on third place, very good! Overall the Swedish team had a very good competition.

Never ending story about illness…

The day after the competition I noticed a big nasty rash on my body while I was doing some exercises for my bad back. I had to go to the Emergency room where I spent the day, while waiting the rash spread to the whole body. My hands went so big that writing this would have been impossible.

I have been at the hospital a few times during the week and they think it’s some kind of allergic reaction but to what they don’t know.

The drugs I got have helped so now I look quite normal again.

Sadly I couldn´t go to Imst for the Youth World Championship this week because of recommedation from my GP and my physical situation…

A great time!, led to a bad thing

I’m back in London after a few weeks in Sweden. I have been climbing every time I have been close to a wall, and I must say it has felt great. I feel stronger and the climbing feels smoother.

I also spent some days in Alingsås to visit Carlos and climb at Korpaberget. I tried to do Kjesarens nya Kläder, which is a short 7c+/8a. The weather was great for being on the beach but not for climbing hard routes…

Already on my first try I noticed that I got stronger, from not being able to basically do any moves last year I could do them all. Unfortunately I was never able to send it but I got really close, many times. Now I have a good excuse to go back.

After that it was a training camp in Gothenburg, with the Swedish team and its training group. We all had a great week, climbing on both real rock and at the climbing gyms. It was also a great chance to try a lot of onsight climbing before the competitions in Imst. Did a lot of nice routes, nothing really hard but many of them were 3 star routes, with the hardest being 7c at Granitgrottan.

Me finding a no-hands on a route at the amazing cliff, Träleberget

Sadly in the end of the week I hurt my shoulder while doing a weird movement. I pulled but my right shoulder was locked in its position and gave out extreme pain. No climbing since that, hopefully I can go to Imst this Friday.

The chiropractor told me that my shoulder and spine were looked in a bad position and blocked the muscles. I was really weak in right arm compered to my left arm, which is fine. Going back on Tuesday, hope its better then.

Norway

All our thoughts go to Norway today!

A short climbing film

I found myself with nothing to do so I made this film!

Climbing in the north

Last week I was visiting my grand parents in the north Sweden. I was not only relaxing at their house or on their boat I also did some climbing.

Two times I climbed at Niemisel, which is one of the best sport climbing cliffs in Sweden and especially for hard climbing.

First time it was 27 degrees in the shadow and the wall is facing south so it was unbelievably hot! Just climbed some easy stuff; it was too hot for me.

Second time was a bit better, mainly because we were there a lot earlier, which made climbing much nicer. I tried a 7c called Great Blondino, which is a long and pumpy route without any real hard moves. Not my style, the fewer move the better…;-)

I was struggling with keeping the pump away but I got one really good try one. On the last ‘hard’ move I put my foot too high in a huge crack and in the middle move my foot popped and I fell of…

Anyway I will be back soon, it’s such a good cliff.

The boulder session went better, even if the mosquitos almost killed us, I was able to do one 7A+ and one 7B quite quickly.

In Stockholm I also had two training sessions at K2, it was great to be back. I also felt stronger than I have done on quite a while, so that was really fun.

Pictures 1 and 3 Maria Krumlinde Picture 2 Miranda Jiglund

The year is over!

Last week, I ended my first year of school in London. It has been a year I will never forget, it has been an amazing journey from September last year until the end of June this year.
My school really support sports, so on the second last day of school they gave out prizes for different sports that students have been able to do after school. I must say I was a proud Scandinavian that day, Sweden, Finland and Norway got most of the prizes! You get a bit patriotic when you go to an international school…
I won the prize for the best overall athlete, I´m really happy for that☺

To go to an international school is different in the way you know that many of your friends will leave in the end of the year and move somewhere else. I have never seen so many sad faces on the last day of school, everyone is saying goodbye to some of their friends. The people that are staying see their friends leave before the summer and see new ones arriving in the autumn.

A last goodbye…